Lockdown 0.2 on a tiny Greek island

Iraklia is a small island located between Ios and Naxos.

It belongs to the paradise complex of Small Cyclades along with Koufonisia, Schoinousa and Donousa. It’s approximately 20klm and has 60 inhabitants. This is the first winter that Iraklia has reached almost 100 people due to remote work as people preferred to quarantine on the island.

“The day starts around 07.30 as it gets dark quite early - as they say, early bird gets the worm. Morning walks replace coffee.

December is dedicated to the collection of saffron.

Women pour out into the fields where they collect saffron from the blossoms of Crocus sativus (Iridaceae), commonly known as saffron crocus or saffron bulbs or zafora (local place name).

Then we reap the blooms and extract the few stigmas which are then dried and put in big jars where can be used in salads, teas, sauces and in many other imaginative ways.

As professional fishing is allowed during the lockdown you can spot several fishermen when gazing at the sea.

Unfortunately, we cannot join them, but we are lucky enough to swim and wave them.

(YES! The weather and the water are still warm).

After the fishing, they visit the local homes and sell their products – something like an alternative supermarket delivery.

The real delivery takes place at 15.30 every day when Skopelitis (one of the oldest ships) arrives at the port of Iraklia, with all deliveries.

There is no super market on the island, and most stuff comes from the island of Naxos.

From groceries to medicine, Iraklia is more or less depended on Naxos for its day to day needs.

I tend to do my shopping around that time and have lunch by the sea, or at the outdoor tables of the one and only cafe.

The local cafe ‘Melissa’ also serves as a grocery store and post office, so it’s always part of my daily route.

The island is also well known for hiking and trekking where you can get to know this wild, beautiful landscape better.

Painted arrows on the ground and signs will guide you around the island.

The entire Iraklia is walkable in just a few days, with several paths to choose from.

I choose a path a day and that’s my daily workout. As you can imagine, here, my local yoga studio is nature :)

Social distancing applies strictly at the island and masks are mandatory when entering the two shops in Iraklia (one at the port and one at Panagia).

Social distancing it’s kind of an irony in such a remote place with just a few people living on it.

Life hasn’t been affected as much because it always follows the cycles of nature that never change.

As evenings are getting colder families tent to gather at the dinner table and play cards while nibbling ‘mezedes’ - tiny fish, a herby pie, olives, local wine and spoon sweets are the most usual.

For most of us it’s been a challenging year trying to adjust on every change. Living on a tiny island helped me to shift perspective.

Time doesn’t stop as people love to say but it does stop being as cruel as in the city, where every minute counts.

I’m not sure what’s my next step or how my life will be when i get back to Athens - but i guess it doesn’t really matter.

If something this year has taught us, is it to be ok (and even happy) without knowing what the future will bring.”

*Diary notes & photo credits: Teta Karampini